Epics like the Ramayan and Narsinha
Puran refer to the use of Patola in
marriage ceremonies as an auspicious
garment. This traditional art received
great patronage during the Chalukya
period. Till today the special technique
of the handmade silk Patola uses the
same special technique for weaving
from raw silk to the completion of
the Patola fabric. The weaver makes
the special Patola loom and colouring
from indigenous natural materials.
The main patola designs are pan bhat
– leaf design, ratan chok bhat
– jewel square, popat kunjar
bhat – parrot and elephant design,
nari kunjar bhat – woman and
elephant design, chhabadi bhat –
basket design and vohra gali bhat
– pattern preferred by Vohra
Muslims. The designs, which may comprise
floral or animal motifs, are first
drawn on paper to achieve accuracy
and accordingly warp and weft are
tied into knots and then dyed into
different colours. The weaving needs
care in uniting a particular colour
in the weft with that in the warp.
Only 5 to 6 inches a day can be woven
to achieve a smooth and identical
finish on both sides of the fabric.
The magnificent coloured highly prized
Patola saree takes nearly one to one
& half years to complete and is
preserved as an heirloom.